Watch as a Jewel

The craft of watch-making had a long association with Nuremberg, covering almost two centuries since the first stirrings of the industry occurred there around 1500. It was then that Nuremberg was the European craft centre, where, as well as watch-making and an early form of loose diamonds cutting, locksmithing was the main occupation. In fact, records show that the watchmakers were originally locksmiths and the two trades were closely allied.

The invention of the coil spring made possible the introduction of portable clocks and watches. The first portable watch is reputed to have been made before 1500. Indications from the early 16th century suggest that watches could be worn on the breast or, more usually, carried in a purse which hung from a girdle around the waist. The earliest dated watch, presently on show at the Louvre, in Paris, was made by Jacques de la Garde of Blois, in France, during the year 1551. This portable timepiece is spherical in shape. Another interesting historical note of the 16th century tells that in her will dated 1566, Mary Queen of Scots left Darnley, her second husband and father of James I of England, 'One watch garnished with 10  diamond stud earrings, two rubies and a cord of gold': certainly a jewel of a watch, by any standards.

History Of The Watches

About a century later, following the introduction of waistcoats, the wearing of watch chains became a fashion. The first 30 years of the 17th century produced an astonishing array of decorated pendant watches. Material used included silver and gilded brass with some made from rock crystal, in the shape of a cross, hollowed out to take the movement. Other hard stones such as agate were faceted for greater interest of diamond engagement rings. The soft glowing colours of enamel, in high relief, lent an extra beauty to these watches. Engraving in its finest form illustrated landscapes, placed in the centre of the dial, while the sides and cover of the case showed figures and floral motifs.

During the 18th century, the fantasy watches of the period were quite ingenious. In the Usher Collection there are two remarkable examples. One is in the form of a strawberry; red enamel is picked out in gold to give the effect of the markings on the fruit and the gold stem is curled into a loop for the chain or ribbon to pass through, on which it is hung. The other, an exquisite mandolin in blue  diamond engagement rings enamel, has a delicate central motif in the form of a gold flower, together with a matching fragment of music manuscript; to complete the harmony of design, pearls are inset around the edge. In the same collection a 19th century example, shaped like a beetle, has expanding wings and ruby eyes; the gold case is set with rose diamonds.

The First Wrist Jewelry Watch

The first wrist watch for women appeared about 1900 and was really a compromise. The existing fob watch was attached to a leather strap and then worn around the wrist. After the 1914-1918 war, plain cases and styles gave way to more exotic designs, in keeping with
the jewellery of the time. The quiet revolution in watch design happened in the Sixties and achieved quite startling results. No fanfare sounded and comparatively little acclaim was made, but it happened just the same, with far-reaching results. The practical side of time¬keeping and the artistic merit of good design are now merged to produce an adornment that works: in fact, the watch as a jewel.

Different Jewelry Watches Designs 

Probably the most significant change in watch design is the harmonizing of the three major elements: in the case, dial and bracelet. There is a recent trend for the case to appear to crown the bracelet. This is a later version of the design where the inset dial seems to be an integral part of the whole. Colour and value have been brought to dials, like a fragment of a stained glass window, and gemstones are used. Coloured blue, green or pink these are lapis lazuli, malachite and coral.

Others include the tawny tiger eye, elegant black onyx and translucent opal. Favourite shapes are the simple circle and the oval, worn either vertically or horizontally. Sometimes the beauty of the gemstones is not disturbed by markings, time being indicated only by the position of the hands. Adding to the total harmony these are usually two shafts of gold, and for an even more luxurious interpretation, diamond-set hands seem to illumine the gemstone dials. There is quite a variation in the contemporary type of gold diamond  rings and bracelet and among the most popular is the basket weave with fine mesh, a rich brocade effect and a soft satin finish, all equally fashionable. Where styling is concerned, some are delicately tapered, while others come in broad bands of yellow or white gold to complete the lavish approach of the watch as a jewel.

Diamond  Watches

 
Diamonds have indeed come to have an influence on watch design. Their unique brilliance emphasises the purity of a gold bracelet, stresses the colour of a particular gemstone dial and adds to the claritv of the diamond necklace. Pave-set diamonds lend themselves to dials. The word pave comes from the French word meaning paved and is an apt description. This stvle has the diamonds placed so closely together that none of the precious metal in which they are set can be seen. An arresting design quarters the dial into pave-set diamonds and black onyx, surrounded bv brilliant diamonds, with a textured 18-carat white gold bracelet. The surround of a watch is known as the bezel. Derived from the French word biseau, meaning bevel, it is simply the grooved rim of the dial into which the watch glass is set.

Among many exquisite contemporary designs there is one that has a combination of diamonds, emeralds and a black diamond necklace opal. The dial is a black opal with shafts of white gold for hands framed in brilliant cut diamonds on a delicate double banded diamond bracelet. A trail of marquise cut emeralds wreathes around the case to make a watch of sheer perfection. Now that the watch is a jewel, it can be worn with pride, like any other treasured possession.