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A Golden Compliment to Gemstones |
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Written by Administrator
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Tuesday, 06 November 2007 |
The essential beauty and colour of gemstones seem to be intensified when set in the sun-glow of gold. This precious metal has had an almost hypnotic quality through the ages. For over 6,000 years it has inspired men to wage war, amass wealth and to demonstrate their love of women. This last has found expression in jewellery, where it pays a particular compliment to white gold engagement rings.
Apparently there is no common derivation for the word gold. The Greek term came from the Hebrew, to shine, and this definition applies to Sanskrit and the Teutonic languages, where it also means a shining or a glowing yellow diamond rings. Perhaps the most charming allusion to its origin lies in the Latin word for gold, which is aururm related to the Italian, aurora, meaning morning glow or shining dawn, it conjures up a romantic image of gold.
Gold was probably the first metal to be worked by primitive man and certain evidence indicates that it was known to the early Egyptians and Babylonians, right back to the beginning of recorded history. The warm glow of gold must have attracted early man as it lay in glittering particles in the sandy bed of many rivers. As gold is heavier than most other metals, the sand could be washed away, leaving grains and chips of gold behind. Its scarcity and mystical appeal, as a symbol of power, gave it divine attributes. According to legend gold was said to be the child of Zeus, father of the gods, and as such could adorn the walls of the temples and be offered as a sacrifice to the gods.
The legend of the Golden Fleece concerns Jason and his band of heroes, the Argonauts. After many perilous adventures, Jason finally secured the Golden Fleece, helped by Medea, with whom he subsequently spent ten stormy years. Jason then married the daughter of King Creon and his untimely end is said to have come about while resting in the shade of his ship, the Argo. The poop fell upon him and accidently crushed him to death.
There is possibly a practical explanation to part of this legend. The Golden Fleece could, indeed, have been nothing more than a sheepskin, commonly used in ancient times to trap the fine specks of alluvial gold found in the fast flowing waters of certain streams.
Known as the noblest precious metal, gold is indestructible, neither tarnishing nor corroding. Gold coins have been recovered from treasure ships lost beneath the sea for two centuries, still looking as bright as new.
The early Egyptians used the circle to symbolise divinity, perfection and the sun. As they considered gold engagement rings to be the most perfect of metals, it was also represented by the circle. Alchemists called gold, sol, the sun or Apollo and designated it as such by means of a crown of rays, referring to it as the very King, or Apollo of metals.
The art of goldsmithing had reached a height of excellence by about 3,000 B.C., not only in Egypt, where gold was found quite extensively, but also in Mesopotamia where it was traded. A remarkable example of the goldsmith's art can be seen in a beautifully tooled helmet found at Ur and dating from about 2700 B.C. Another treasure is the lid of Tutankhamun's coffin, made in his image with incredible artistry, about 1350 B.C.
In these early days only Kings and the very rich were able to use gold but it became more plentiful so its use increased. In general terms smaller articles of jewellery appeared and it was possible for more people to become the owners of such treasured possessions.
Gold has been found in Britain; in fact there is a gold¬mine in North Wales which is unfortunately no longer commercially worthwhile. It is interesting to note that everv royal bride of this century has been married with a wedding ring made from the gold of this Welsh mine.
It has a characteristic colour, being reddish-yellow with a green tinge.
Gold in its pure state is unsuitable for making into jewellery and has to be alloyed, that is mixed with other metals, to give the required hardness and desired colour, ranging from yellow to purple. Indeed the demand from various markets throughout the world and prevailing fashions have a marked influence on the production of the various gold colours. At one time Europeans preferred a redder solitaire loose diamonds than the British. Of late there is a noticeable swing towards white gold, both in Britain and abroad. Multi-coloured gold has become popular, and this entails a mixture of red, yellow and white, but more extravagant shades have been produced to include green, lilac, blue and purple.
Of course the quality of, gold is of the utmost importance. In Britain there are four legal standards: 22-carat, 18-carat, 14-carat and 9-carat. In other countries 8-carat and 15-carat are legal. This carat system is a way of indicating the proportion of gold there is to the other metals in a particular alloy. Pure gold is reckoned as 24 carat, therefore 22-carat will contain 22 parts of gold to two parts of other metal. 18-carat has 18 parts of gold to 6 parts of other metal. 14-carat gold is not often used in this country but to
estimate it, the count is 14 parts of gold to 10 parts of other metal. Where 9-carat discount diamond rings are concerned, there are 9 parts of gold and 15 parts of other metal.
British hallmarks have acted as safeguard to pur¬chasers of gold, and of course silver, for over six cen¬turies. In 1300 King Edward I gave the responsibility for testing and certifying the quality of precious metals to the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths,
The Goldsmith's Company came into existence in London during the 12th century. It was. originally a 'getting together' of the goldsmiths, silversmiths and jewellers so that they could protect themselves and provide financial aid for their families. A central fund was formed to which subscriptions were allocated.
Their first building was erected in 1340, near St. Paul's Cathedral and they have been on the same site ever since.
The present Goldsmiths' Hall, in Foster Lane, is the fourth and was completed in 1835. Since they were appointed 'Guardians of the Craft' in 1300, the Goldsmiths' Company have controlled the testing and marking of gold and silver objects. Hallmarking, the world's oldest form of consumer protection, takes its name from their hall, which still houses the London Assay Office.
There are now three more British Assay Offices, in Birmingham, Sheffield and Edinburgh, although there were other Assay Offices in former times.
Hallmarks are a definite form of protection for they show that an article has been tested at an Assay Office and certify that the metal used conforms to one of the legal standards of fineness and purity. British Assay Offices are incorporated by Royal Charter or by statute and all are independent of any trade organisation. This guarantee of quality ensures the highest standards of gold as used in diamond jewelry.
Gold plays an essential part in the design concept of jewellery. It is not the amount that matters: it is the way it is used. The response of gold is quite remarkable. Easy to handle, it lends itself to carving, chiselling and melting. It can also be wrought into delicate tendrils and twigs or further enriched with golden granules.
Tiny squares can be applied in such a way as to produce different levels. Gold diamond jewelry used in/contemporary designs has its
origins in the early Italian or Etruscan period. Another way with gold is to have slender twisted ropes made into rings, bracelets and brooches. In the time of Tutankhamun, Egyptian goldsmiths created their gold jewellery in similar fashion.
Textured gold, with a bark or frosted finish, has added interest and is probably more practical to wear because it eliminates fingermarks and conceals scratches. Combined with high polished gold a mixture of the two makes for a greater play of light and shade. Many of the larger and more imposing pieces of gold jewellery revert to the polished surface and this seems to intensify the depth of this fascinating precious metal.
Much of the variation in jewellery design relies on the versatility of gold and its apparent ease of manipulation. Spanning the centuries it has been an adornment almost since the dawn of history, thus preserving the traditional as well as the romantic aspects. Its inherent characteristic is a golden glow that gives a feeling of warmth at all times.
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Last Updated ( Thursday, 01 October 2009 )
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